June 5th: Jolly Harbour, Antigua – Deshaies, Guadeloupe
At the beginning of June, we started to watch the weather. From now on, we would be heading almost due south, so our concern was the easterly trade winds and beam seas. Although conditions weren’t perfect, we found a window for cruising the fifty miles south to Guadeloupe. Just across from us was a sailboat, Symbiosis, which was heading in the same direction. We discussed the weather, and we agreed to leave more or less together on Sunday the 5th. In order to leave at dawn, we checked out of the marina and the country, and anchored out in front of the harbor entrance. We took a last dinghy tour of the beaches south of Jolly Harbour.
We left with no wind and calm seas. The forecast called for winds of ten to fifteen knots, and seas from three to four feet. Shortly after leaving the lee of Antigua, it was obvious that this was going to be a lousy passage. The winds whipped up to twenty-five knots, and the seas were pounding our beam at six to eight feet, with a short period. The stabilizers couldn’t keep up with the rolling waves, so we had to start a tacking course, varying from the direct course by 20°. We saw Symbiosis taking a course far to our port, which I supposed was better for the wind. About halfway across the passage, Rose was on watch, and she saw what appeared to be several fish trap buoys, red and yellow. However, the depth was over 4000 feet. We then got a hail from Symbiosis, and they said they had lost a few jerry jugs off of their deck – mystery solved!
Once we got into the lee of Guadeloupe, conditions calmed considerably. We had read that the harbor at Deshaies had a lot of free moorings inside, so we were planning to take one. Once we arrived, we could see that virtually all of the moorings were occupied by local boats, so we needed to anchor. It was a little crowded near the preferred anchorage area, but we managed to get the hook set. After such a lousy passage, we were relieved to be at peace. Symbiosis arrived shortly after us, and anchored in the southern part of the bay.
Position at destination: 16°18.454’N, 61°47.860’W
Air temp: 89, Humidity: 53%, Water temp: 82
Nautical miles for this leg: 49.69 Total: 10,058
Departed at 6:10am, arrived at 3:15pm
June 5th – 9th: Deshaies, Guadeloupe
The bay was very scenic, surrounded by forested green hills, with a quaint French-looking town. We had read that check-in was done at a store in town. We stopped by Symbiosis (Scott and Noi), but that had already checked in. We did agree to meet in town for lunch after we checked in. We were looking for a place called Le Pelican, which we thought was a bar. It turned out to be a clothing shop, which was more of a shack than a shop. We walked right past it at first, but we eventually found it. Check in is simple in the French West Indies, done on computers in local businesses. The only trouble is the French keyboard, which has a few different keys placed on it. Most annoying is the placement of the “A” where a “Q” normally sits. We met up with Scott and Noi, found the ATM at the post office, and tried to find a place for lunch. Since it was after 1:00, several places told us they were closed, or out of fish. We eventually found a place that was open and had fish. After lunch, we decided to visit the local botanical gardens the following day.
The gardens, Jardin Botanique de Deshaies, are located on the hill overlooking the bay. Since it is a long way up, the gardens sent a van to pick us up in town at no cost. The gardens turned out to be fabulous, and well worth the time and the 15.90€ admission price. The gardens have an extensive collection of tropical plants, and it turns out that Noi is an expert on tropical forests, so she was a great guide. There was also a walk-in enclosure full of lorikeets, and we found a number of ripe mangoes to eat as we walked through. It rained off and on, but we were very happy that we took the time to visit. A sampling of the pictures we took are included here – for more of them, see the photo gallery.
Following our day at the garden, we went snorkeling at the mouth of the bay. There were several buoys set up for dive boats, but we didn’t see a lot of fish. We did catch our first glimpse of a lionfish. There were two of them resting between some rocks – they are active at night. We didn’t have the spear with us, but we were able to photograph one of them from above – you can make it out in the crevice between the rocks.
We then took the dinghy around the corner to see the huge beach, Grande Anse. The bay was probably a mile wide, with the beach about fifty feet wide. Behind the beach was dense forest, but there were some picnic and camping sites in the forest.
During our stay, we got a visit from another trawler dinghy (center console style). There were three people on board – one couple was on a Hatteras trawler near us, and the other guy was on a sailboat. They asked us about our plans, and we told them we were going to Grenada, where we had reserved a slip with US power (120V, 60Hz), since that was the only marina to have that power- essential for air-conditioning! They didn’t know this, so we told them the marina name and urged them to make a reservation. That night we had the most fabulous sunset that we had yet seen. The picture has not been edited – it really looked like this.
June 9th: Deshaies – Anse le Barque
After a few wonderful days, we were ready to move on. Our friends on Symbiosis decided to leave early in the morning, planning to spend the day and night near Pigeon Island, where the Jacque Cousteau Reserve is located. It was supposed to have some of the best snorkeling and diving in the Caribbean, but we were warned that it is usually very rolly as an anchorage. We left a few hours after Symbiosis, and headed south down the coast. It was a very calm day, and a beautiful cruise.